Travel Update: Turkey

Howdy from Turkey!

Sorry for the blog delay but I'm cruising down the Turkish coast and internet access is harder than ever. Will provıde a more substantial update shortly but just wanted to pass along the vital information that Turkey is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been.

I'll spend the next 3-4 weeks exploring this diverse nation so stay tuned!

Drewshbagging it in Santorini

So my extended tour of the Greek islands got increased yet again as my 3 days in Santorini evolved into 5 as I moved in with five Seattlonians (Seattlites? Seattlovians?) who made me an honourary Americaner for our much to brief time together.

Santorini was an amazing island that illustrated some of the most obvious extremes in modern Greece. Between it's towns, beaches, roving animals and obvious economic indicators Santorini proved to be much more than a honeymooner's paradise.

Santorini boasts three major towns I was able to visit - Oia, Fira & Perissa. Oia is this idyllic, gravity defying village that is nestled on the Northern tip of the island. It's a honeymooners paradise with it's stunning vistas, sunsets and glowing white hotels that hang almost precariously over the sea in a stunning fashion. Perissa has developed along a 2 mile stretch of beach on the islands Southeastern plains and appears to be the destination of choice for backpackers or Anglophiles looking to spend their summer as a "fly ho"* or other bar and restaurant staff. Appropriately for this party town and in contrast to Oia's romantic evenings, Perissa's sunrises are a major attraction for party-goers stumbling home after a quick stop at one of the several 24 hour bakeries that serve the best damn Nutella croissants this kid has ever gotten all over his shirt.
Cats vs. Dogs - I'm sure this metaphor can be played out in many ways but Greece's roving packs of wild pets have even found their own pockets on this island. Oia tends to be dominated by docile cats stretched out in the summer sun while Perissa's bands of dogs have found their homes under the chairs of bar patrons, digging holes on her pristine black sand beach and providing walking companions on the way home from the bar. I even found the only dog I've ever wanted to pack in my backpack and take home with me: Ears. She was half husky- half mutt with one blue eye and one brown and ears that stuck out at 9 & 3. If you ever venture to Perissa and find Ears in the puppy mix you give her a good pet for me (and then wash your hands - I think she has fleas).

Red vs. Black Sand - As an aspiring vulcanologist I can tell you that Santorini is a volcanic island (fact). The benefit of this magmatic activity are the outstanding black sand and red sand beaches. There's no clear winner in this contest aside from those who get to enjoy their graces.

Economic Disparities - In contrast to Oia's glittering buildings that seem unchanged in a dozen years Perissa was clearly undergoing a construction boom until recent troubles. The money that poured into this beach town to elevate it to the next level is now highlighted by unfinished concrete shells where work has come to a standstill. So far this has been the most obvious display of Greece's current economic woes through my island tour but it's telling of the impact of the economic crisis.

Staying vs. Leaving - Moving in with the five Seattlavians and out of Anna's Youth Hostel was a welcome change especially considering this crew put the rad in radishes. Settling into the semblance of a real apartment would have proved all too easy and Santorini's charms certainly had me getting lost in a sea of black sand and nutella croissants. Take this as a word of caution or what have you but the Greek islands have an amazing capacity to suck you in and not let you go. I have never been so unaware of time, dates and the outside world in my life as I have been over these last two weeks touring Mykonos, Ios, Santorini and now Rhodes. It's a wonderful feeling that's a blessed mix of freedom, pure relaxation with the tinge of a constant hangover. Overall Santorini was a total blast and I hope to be reunited with the Sunscreen Magnates of Perissa Beach sometime soon. Until then and having spent only a day in Rhodes I must say that so far I am utterly smitten with this new island but I have places to see on this trip and a EuroRail pass that's feeling lonely amongst all this ferry travel.




I'd like to close this post with a list of hilarious things:


1) Ruining the dinner of families by yelling at the moon while drinking on the beach
2) The D.E.N.N.I.S. system
3) Drewshbag - Defined as being in or related to the state of drunken Drew. This includes but is not limited to limp-wristed high-fives, blackouts, banging on the door of shared hostel rooms, and giving speeches about not being "those Americans" 4 hours prior to completing all of the above.
4) Strategies to break up perfect couples.

*"Fly Ho" is the complimentary term given to the lovely ladies who post fliers for their bar's evening events and comb the beach to make sure revelers know where to go for their free shots that evening.

Travel Update

Arrived in Santorini last night and checked into Youth Hostel Anna for a few days. My boat to Rhodes doesn't leave until the 21st so I'll enjoy Santorini's sights for the next little while before continuing the journey on to Turkey.

If anyone's been through here before and has some recommendations in Perissa or Thera please let me know!

Detour: Ios

You know what they say about the best laid plans of mice and men and the same holds true for those who operate the Greek ferries.

I left Mykonos on a blustery day destined for the isle of Santorini but the winds and waves made the island impregnable and effectively turned my entire ferry into a floating sick bag. I checked around and no, these folks did not eat at Music Cafe or Niko's just prior to boarding (see previous Mykonos post). Personally I didn't have any major issues and I must say I take great pride in my constitution for not spilling my lunch.

Anywho, we had a scheduled stop in Ios where a couple friends I'd made were getting off. They announced that they'd stop indefinitely while they made a decision on whether or not to continue on to Santorini. Personally I take stops like this as a sign that solid ground is my best option and disembarked with Brent and Colleen and besides there are worse places in the world to be stuck. As an aside, the boat sat rocking in the harbour for 2 more hours before they quietly announced that it would not continue on to Santorini that evening.

When I was originally planning the trip with Mitch and Josh we had debated whether or not to go to Ios or Mykonos and ultimately decided on the latter. And while I loved Mykonos if your sole intention on coming to Greece is to party your ass off for as cheaply as possible I will whole-heartedly recommend the island of Ios. The party is just as good as Mykonos, the beaches may even be considered better and honest to god Ios is about a third the cost of her cycladic sibling. This is obviously public knowledge as the island is chalk full of three nationalities: Canucks, Aussies and Brits.

The winds continued on the second day filling the sea with a fury that contrasted sharply with the crystal clear skies. I was not dissuaded by this and headed to the beach with some folks from the hostel including some time in these rough waters.

It brought back memories of a summer my family spent up on Georgian Bay. These waters can get notoriously rough and as kids sometimes the windy gray days were the most fun. We had two kinds of waves to survive: rollers and crashers. Rollers can be overcome with a little jump but a crasher can only be survived by diving straight through to the next valley between the crests.

I don't know what or where our goal was on those days we would battle the surf; how many waves needed to be overcome before we beat the sea or even if the only definition of victory was survival. Whatever the case when faced with an oncoming crasher as my ferry slugged into Ios I'm glad I dove straight through because the other side was too much fun to be missed.

Eggs and Bacon - Mykonos in 10 Easy Lessons

For the love of Mykonos! I've made this island my haunt for a touch too long but as the days have gotten longer and my bathing suit shorter I've learned some important lessons about life in Greece and in particular Mykonos:

1) When the sun is shining Mykonos smells like maple bacon; on the rare gray days it smells like eggs. I don't know what gives this island it's eggs and bacon polarity but I do enjoy it;

2) Greek mosquitoes love my sweet sweet Canadian blood. While I am mildly concerned that my blood-alcohol content level will lead to a mosquito population explosion I hope that instead it will lead to drunk flying accidents and knock the buggers off;

3) Oregano is the best restaurant in Mykonos (Greek or otherwise). Situated at the top of the hill overlooking the main town this restaurant has all the tell-tale signs of greatness: delivery scooters buzz in and out in a constant stream, the patronage is predominately Greek and the food is spectacularly good and so reasonably priced they're practically providing a public service. I thought I knew what Greek food was but until my first trip to Oregano (and the subsequent 7 follow-ups) I had no idea what I was missing;

4) If you want an underwhelming food experience that's overpriced and will almost certainly deliver a case of diarrhoea then eat anywhere in the main town and particularly anywhere along the waterfront. If by chance you are specifically looking the the latter of my three described sensations may I recommend either Music Cafe or Niko's;

5) At all costs avoid the town when a cruise ship is in port. On a regular day the streets are a tnagled cobweb but trying to navigate them behind an ambling pack of septaginarian pacaderms is the only thing I've found that can induce stress on the entire island;

6) Without question rent a scooter or quad. Both are the desired modes of transportation for visitors and the best way to explore the island's towns, beaches and hidden secrets;

7) When it comes to beaches Super Paradise > Paradise. While this seems self-evident just based on the names we had to check to be sure.

8) The nightlife is unquestionably sensational and I certainly recommend Scandinavian Bar or Jackie O's. But my strongest advice is buy a 10 Euro bottle of vodka and then bring only what you can afford to spend and nothing more. The drinks are the most expensive I've encountered in all of Europe (I'm reassured by my Greek friends it is specific to this island);

9) Above all plan your exit strategy. Travelling to Mykonos is not like some war with Iraq that you can just enter into willy-nilly and be done with in a few days. If so I would have unfurled my Mission Accomplished banner about 7 days ago. The island is absolutely idyllic and has everything you could want in a holiday but the routine becomes so common that days and nights blend together and before long you've forgotten what day it is or when you arrived. Two days ago when I had to ask the date I was struck with a moment of panic and I knew it was time to go. Mykonos is an island to lose oneself in a holiday so come and enjoy but do not expect to find yourself;

10) Delos is a must-see for Greek ruins. This small island off the Mykonian coast is an ancient religious and trading hub and quite spectacular. When you go be sure to hike up to the lookout and do me a favour and let me know if a monument erected by three Canadian boys still stands.

I am "bringing a responsible end" to my Mykonos vacation with a gradual withdrawl via ferry to Santorini tomorrow. After a few days there it's on to Rhodes to make the leap over to Turkey to explore their side of the Aegean. If anyone has any recommendations please let me know!

Next Up

I'll stay in Mykonos for a few more days before heading off to Santorini and Rhodes as I make my way to the Turkish Aegean coast. If anyone has any recommendations on where to stay or what to see on these two islands let me know!

P.s. I promise this blog won't turn all "woe is me" now that I'm travelling solo ;)

The Next Chapter

Mitch and Josh left today destined for Calgary by way of Athens and London. I'd like to say that I was resolute and strong with no sadness for their departure and only exhilaration for what comes next but I promised myself I'd be honest in this blog so the truth was that I was struck by a great amount of sadness and shed more than a few tears.

The past three weeks were have been extraordinary and filled with fun and immeasurable laughs. Who could ask for more than getting to gallivant around Europe with two of your best friends? I didn't expect to be so struck by their departure but there I was - my parting image to the boys being one of tears and snot.

And while that instant was filled with sadness I believe it's only sad because of the unknown of the future. Our pasts are relative, known. They are the yardstick by which we go on to measure our future instances. There is nothing scary about the past and what has already transpired; but the future... what lies ahead in our world and our lives is the adventure still unknown. We cannot smile, laugh or even weep over moments yet to unfold and while I hope and have confidence that my future will contain adventure and joy rather than grief in that moment - that instant in my life - I largely felt sadness to see my friends ride off into their futures while I stood in quiet anticipation of mine.

Commenting

Hi everyone,

Just as an aside post, I've received a lot of notes from people about having trouble commenting on the blog. I've changed the settings so I think it should be easier so if you want to comment please feel free to give it another shot.

Cheers,

Andrew

Viva Barcelona!

Update: This post is new and improved with photos!

Preface: I'm sorry there are no pictures to accompany this post but my internet connection kept timing out before they would upload and between the options of finishing this post and hurling Josh's laptop into the Aegean Sea I opted to finish the post so please use your imaginations and if one day I find high speed internet on the continent of Europe I'll be sure to upload lots of pics. And now, the post....

From the instant you arrive in Barcelona you pick up on an energy from this city that is unlike any other place. This city runs deep without a doubt and it quickly became my favourite stop of the trip thus far.

With so many sights to explore in and around Barcelona we did our best to see what was important to each of us. The first day was unintentionally Gaudi-oriented when we went and saw La Padrera and La Sagrada Familia. If you've never heard of Gaudi you're not alone but you're missing out. My advice is that rather than Google or Wikipedia the man book a trip to Barcelona as nothing he created in his lifetime is as impressive than when you see it in person.


While I loved La Padrera, the Sagrada Familia is the most incredible edifice I've ever seen. Nothing I could write here nor any picture I could post would do justice to the sheer wonder and beauty that is this 8th wonder of the world in the making. The Temple - as it's known - has been under construction for over 100 years and they currently estimate it will take another 20 to complete and you can bet I'll be there again to see this magnificent structure completed.


The following day we split off to do different things and I took in the Picasso Museum first while the boys did what one does on La Rambla (i.e. ramble). The Picasso Museum was extraordinary and a great way to understand what a truly prolific and evolutionary artist he was. The Museum is structured to guide you through his different periods and gives you insight into the various influences that inspired/encouraged Picasso's evolution from his early classic style to his dramatic cubism.

I took in the waterfront, La Rambla, Parc de Ciutadella and - before my feet totally gave out on me - Parc de Monjuic. We reunited for dinner and some time out on the town in Eixample which is a very cool neighbourhood near the University with lots of great architecture, restaurants and bars.

The next day was spent it Sitges (will be it's own post so stay tuned) but overall Barcelona left a lasting impression. Above all one must be impressed with the extraordinary public works of La Rambla, the beautiful parks and above all Gaudi's masterpiece La Sagrada Familia.

Since visiting The Temple there hasn't been a day I haven't reflected on it's magnificance. I'm not a religious person by nature but this building truly is a monument to faith; and I am not just Gaudi's devoute Catholicism. This building is a monument to man's faith in oneself. How else could anyone designed such an enormous undertaking is he did not believe inherantly in his own abilities, those around him and in the very project itself? When you comprehend the sheer scale of this 150 year project I could only think of a man in 1883 designing a building of uncomperable scale and detail knowing full well he'd never see it's completion but yet having the faith to dedicate the last 40 years of his life to this project in the belief that it will be finished even without him.

Although they're very different personalities, I keep drawing a connection between Gaudi and Picasso in my mind. What impressed me the most after visiting the Picasso Museum was his courage and faith in himself to consistantly reinvent his style and push the boundaries of the comfort zone of his work. His work was always acclaimed and well received and he likely would have done very well as an artist sticking with his early style that was in the vein of the Old Masters. You could say that his faith in his underlying talents gave him the courage to reinvent his style and push the boundaries of the art world.

While it's nice to put these men on a pedastal of courage and leaders in their field I couldn't help but wonder if during their lives they had their doubts; moments where they second-guessed not just their projects but themselves and their steadfastness to complete them. It seems all too likely and it gives me hope that regardless of the times when we don't necessarily believe in ourselves or what we are doing that hopefully it leads to something remarkable and lasting that gives others cause to reflect on their own faith in themselves.

Paris - The City of Lines

So perhaps it was a bit of the Amster-hangover or perhaps the inclement weather but ultimately we weren't big fans of the city of lights. While she has her highlights and certainly her own vibe, Paris did not win the affections of these three fellas.

We took the train from Amsterdam and missed our connection in Brussels thanks to Miss Information at the Amsterdam train station. It did all work out and I encourage future travellers that when in doubt look distressed and people will usually let you at least sit on the floor of a train even if there are no seats remaining.

Anywho, we arrived, checked into our 'hotel' and promptly went out to see the majors: Arch de Triumph, le Tour Eiffel et les Champs Elysees.

My honest advice when it comes to the Eiffel Tower is do not go up it unless you absolutely, positively have a deep yearning to do so and if that's the case make a reservation in advance (especially if you're proposing). Personally, I found the base impressive and breathtaking but the hour wait at the base to ride to the second floor to get in another 45 minute line to ride to the summit was not my cup of tea for a good view. Sacre Cour has brilliant views of the city as well but you won't lose 2 hours of your life to an unforgiving line where it is unlikely you'll hear a word of French (they know better).

The following day I was recovering from a poor run-in with beef bourguignon the night before and I hung back for a couple more hours of lying down while the boys hit the Louvre. It's free the first Sunday of every month and while the line may seem ominous as opposed to le line d'Eiffel this one actually moves (especially if you have a bottle of wine in your hand that you need to finish before you reach the front).

When I was able to pull myself back together I ventured out on my own and took in Notre Dame and some of the beautiful areas in the 1st and 2nd arrondissements. Notre Dame was quite beautiful and stunning and made me think a fair amount about St. Paul's in London as they're an interesting contrast. Nonetheless, the day was mostly wandering, drinking and eating and for me this was the highlight of the trip to Paris.

I doubt it's a coincidence that there were a limited number of Parisians in any of the queues we experienced during our time in Paris. If I were to go back again I would focus more time on the cafe and park culture and less on the major sites. Yes they are beautiful and stunning and make sure you take them in but surely the joy of Paris is just to be in such a historic city. Etre was the first verb I ever learned to conjugate en francais and. The simple act of just being can sometimes be lost during a whirlwind trip such as ours but at least for one day I felt a bit closer to saying je suis Parisian (although don't worry - I didn't buy a beret).

P.s. If you're ever trying to take a group jumping picture in front of a major monument, choose your photographer wisely. Young girls with fancy cameras do not mean they know how to use them, it just means they have a fancy camera.

P.p.s. I was pleasantly surprised at my ability to communicate in Franglais. Kudos to my French teachers and cereal boxes of the past that taught me more or less how to stumble through a sentance, locate a gym, read a menu and choose my wine - actually that thanks goes to my parents ;-)

And Then There Was Amsterdam (I Think)

Ok I have to start by giving a piece of advice to anyone who has never been to Amsterdam but intends to visit: the very first thing you'll do upon exiting the train station is almost be killed by someone on a bike and then someone on a scooter and finally by a tram. Provided you survive this shouldn't be something you worry about but just be aware this is how the Dutch identify the tourists (beyond backpacks, Canadian flags and skate shoes).

Now that we've got that out of the way I must say that I friggin LOVED Amsterdam. On our first day I was a bit on the fence but this city is spectacular in so many ways that go beyond the classic view of a city that is laissez-faire about sex & drugs.

A big part of planning our trip was centered around being their for Queen's Day; this is a national festival to celebrate the Queen's Birthday and holy hanna was it something else but before that we spent a fair bit of time exploring the city including two extraordinary sites: Anne Frank's House and the Van Gogh Museum.

I'd never drawn many parallels between these two famous Dutch figures but the common threads seem to suggest something powerful about Dutch culture. Both left behind striking works of self-reflection that over time have become incredibly culturally significant and perhaps more importantly both were highly self-critical of themselves. I wouldn't say that either site was depressing for this reason but personally it left me pondering the things we create in our lifetime and their relevance after we're gone. More often than not we are always our harshest critics but perhaps so long as what we contribute to our world around us is important to us in due time others around us will begin to see that importance as well.

London Calling!

London was a phenomenal leg to the trip. On day 2 we boys were left to our own devices so we promptly grabbed our matching North Face jackets, purchased our double decker tourist bus tickets and put a giant stamp saying tourist across our foreheads.

But honest to god if you want to come to London and see all the sites this a great way to do it. From Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square, Big Ben/Parliament, Tower Bridge, etc. we left no tourist trap unturned!

After exhausting ourselves and taking no less than 50 pictures of Big Ben we met up with Chad, Cam and Emily on Brick Lane for a traditional English meal of some of the best damn curry I have ever tasted. More than the actual eating, the joy of a meal on Brick Lane is the experience of choosing your restaurant. With no exaggeration there`s probably 50 Indian Restaurants and each is guarenteed to have two things: a guy out front hawking his restaurant with the "best deal in town" and a sign indicating their chef was voted the best on Brick Lane within the last 2 years.
The brilliance of their best deal proposition is that everyone has the exact same deal: 2 courses for 10 pounds and two pints. Their aggressiveness depends on the company your keep but for Cam, Josh, Mitch and I walking down the street (4 relatively big lads who likely have a pechant for curry and booze) you would have thought we were made of gold. Ultimately we chose Aladin (a favourite of Mr. Cameron`s) and we were not disappointed.

The last day in London brought us a treat straight from Newfoundland when Mindy joined us for the day. We wandered around Camden and it's remarkable Market, got free ice cream at Ben and Jerry's and then went up to Primrose Hill for the best view of the city before meeting up with Cam and Richie for dinner. It was a great day that we capped off with a super fun night at a bunch of bars in Soho before flying off to Amsterdam in the morning.
P.s. French keyboards have the Q where the A is supposed to be - I am positive that this is just to infuriate English users when they visit

Oh la la

Mon dieu! My appologies for the grande delay in le blogging but internet access is surprisingly hard to come by on le droit side of the Atlantic. Enjoy the follozing posts and potentially pictures (I`m working on it as we type/read); oh and I`m also struggling with un keyboard en français which is nothing like it`s North American brethren. Au revoir!